Whether you’re looking to upgrade your PC and you need your system’s specs to know what kind of new PC hardware you can buy, or you’re going to sell your current system and you need to know what specs you have so you can list them in your ad, checking your computer’s specs is actually a pretty easy task.

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In this easy-to-follow guide, we’ll walk you step-by-step through how to quickly check your computer’s specs so that you can get the information you need.

Table of Contents

1. How to Check What CPU You Have

Installing omnisphere 2 windows. 2. How to Check What GPU You Have

3. How to Check What Motherboard You Have

4. How to Check How Much Memory You Have

4. Third Party Tools to Check Your PC’s Specs

How to Check What Processor (CPU) You Have

If you’re wondering what kind of processor you have, you can easily find out that information on a Windows 10 computer in two clicks.

To find out what CPU you have, simply do the following:

1. Right-click on the Windows start menu icon on the bottom left-hand side of your screen.
2. Click on ‘System’ in the menu that pops up.
3. Next to ‘Processor’ it will list what kind of CPU you have in your computer.

Easy, right?

How to Check What Graphics Card (GPU) You Have

If you want to find out what kind of graphics card you have, the process is similar to finding out what CPU you have, but checking to see what GPU is in your system is 50% more work than checking to see what your CPU is. (Beause you have to click 3 times, instead of 2.)

To find out what GPU you have, simply do the following:

1. Again, right-click on the Windows start menu icon.
2. Click on ‘Device Manager’ in the menu that pops up.
3. In ‘Device Manager’ click on the arrow next to ‘Display Adapters’
4. Your GPU will be listed there.

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It should be noted, though, that it might show two options under the ‘Display Adapters’ tab. If it shows two, that means it is showing both the integrated graphics on your processor and the dedicated graphics card on your laptop.

The one that you are looking for is the dedicated graphics card, as it is the more powerful (and the one your system uses) of the two.

And, your dedicated graphics card will typically be the second option listed. If you have an Intel processor, the integrated graphics will be named something like ‘Intel HD Graphics 4000.’ In that case, the other option will be the one you want to.

And, it will likely either be something like NVIDIA GeForce GTX 700M or AMD Radeon (or HD) R9 M470. Just note, though, that if you have an AMD processor in your system, the integrated graphics will also likely be ‘AMD Radeon…” But in that case, just go with the 2nd option, as that is likely your dedicated graphics.

How to Check What Motherboard You Have

To find out what type of motherboard you have (and, really, who manufactures your motherboard and what socket and chipset it is), the process is a bit different than above.

You could of course open up your desktop (if you have a desktop and not a laptop) and check and see who manufactures your motherboard and what the model name is on the board.

However, motherboard’s are typically named something like ASUS Z370-A, or MSI B350M, or Gigabyte GA-AX370-Gaming5, where ASUS, MSI, and Gigabyte are motherboard manufactures, and Z370, B350, and X370 are the motherboard chipsets (which can also lead you to the socket type of the motherboard as well.)

So, if you’re not somewhat familiar with who the main motherboard manufacturers are and what string of letters and numbers to look for that designate the chipset and motherboard name, you might want to go with an easier option.

For some users, you can try the following:

1. In the Windows search bar, type in ‘System Information’
2. Scroll down on the System Summary tab (opens on the left side of the window) until you find ‘Motherboard Manufacturer’, or ‘BaseBoard Manufacturer’.
3. The information next to ‘Motherboard/BaseBoard Manufacturer’, ‘Motherboard/BaseBoard Model’, and ‘Motherboard/BaseBoard Name’, should give you the information you are looking for.

Although, in a lot of cases, the information you’ll find in these tabs might be kind of vague. For instance, on my desktop, the BaseBoard Manufacturer is ‘ASUSTek COMPUTER INC.’, the BaseBoard Model is ‘Not Available’, and the BaseBoard Name is ‘Base Board’.

It’s not really a whole lot to go off of, but it does at least let you know who manufactured your motherboard. And, it could help make it easier to find the information you’re looking for when you open up your computer to check.

How to Check How Much Memory (RAM) You Have

Checking how much RAM you have in your computer is another very easy task. In fact, you can find how much memory you have on the same screen that lists what CPU you have.

1. Right-click the Windows start menu icon.
2. Select ‘System’
Age of empires ii serial key. 3. Scroll down and it should list how much memory you have.

You can also find out how much RAM you have by looking in ‘System Information’ on Windows 10 as outlined in the section above on how to find out what type of motherboard you have.

Third Party Tools

While the methods above will easily all you to check your computer’s specifications, you can also use third-party hardware monitoring tools to help you find necessary info about your system.

We recommend the following tools to help you monitor you computer’s performance, as well as give you information (like what CPU and GPU you have, as well as how much RAM you have):

• CPU-Z
• Speccy
• Core Temp (CPU only)
• HWInfo

After You Check What Computer Specs You Have…

Now that you know what specs your computer has you can make a better decision on whether or not your current system is worth upgrading or not. However, it should be noted that if you are looking to upgrade your components, it isn’t as simple as just picking out a new and better component and putting it into your system.

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Your current components will dictate what new components you can buy. For instance, if you have an older motherboard, you can’t simply go out and upgrade to the newest processor, because your motherboard and the newest processor probably won’t be compatible.

You also can’t go out and upgrade your graphics card to the biggest and best option available if your existing power supply doesn’t have enough power supply to accommodate the new GPU.

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In fact, in a lot of cases, if you have an older system, it might make more sense to just buy or build a brand new system, as your older system might not have any components worth keeping around. If that’s the case, check out our buyer’s guide on buying/building a cheap PC, or if you want to spend more, our buyer’s guide on buying/building a high-end computer.

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GPU-Z is a lightweight utility that’s frequently used to identify GPUs and parse their various characteristics. It’s capable of logging a number of GPU variables in real-time, which is useful for measuring throttling, clock, and fan speeds, and it can tell you a great deal about the specifics of your GPU’s support for APIs like Vulkan, OpenGL, and DirectX. Now, the utility has added a new feature — the ability to detect counterfeit cards.

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I was a bit surprised to read it because it’s been a long time since counterfeit parts were a major issue in the United States. 18-20 years ago, when I ran my own computer service and repair business, I had more than a few college students walk through the door with, shall we say, interesting hardware configurations. Back then, it wasn’t unheard of for unscrupulous individuals to save money by overclocking a CPU (typically by hardware jumper settings, though BIOS overclocking was in its early stages) and selling it as the more expensive part. Push a K6-2 266 up to 300MHz-333MHz, and you could pocket the additional premium between the two chips’ sale price. In one memorable case, I had a customer show up with a no-name knockoff motherboard and a Celeron that insisted it was actually a Pentium II.

Intel and AMD put a stop to this kind of hacking through a variety of methods, including locking the multipliers of various CPUs and, in some instances, building motherboards that didn’t respond well to bus overclocking to prevent counterfeit hardware from being hidden that way. We haven’t heard as much about this issue on the GPU side of the equation, though I believe it’s cropped up a time or two before, mostly when ATI or Nvidia would release a lower-end card that actually deployed the same version of a GPU as a higher-end solution. In these instances, a simple BIOS flash could sometimes result in a much faster, more powerful GPU, assuming that the additional resources had been locked off for market segmentation purposes rather than because they just didn’t work.

Evidently, GPU counterfeiting is now enough of an issue in Chinese markets that GPU-Z has added the ability to identify whether your card is what it claims to be. In the image below, a normal GPU is on the left, an identified fake card on the right.

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To a knowledgeable eye, the GPU on the right obviously isn’t a GTX 1050 Ti — the core, shader, and ROP figures are all wrong. But since that’s not automatically clear to the end-user, the utility now displays a prominent FAKE warning next to the name of the card, with a warning logo where the company logo would normally sit. The GF116 was used for the GTX 550 Ti, GTX 560M, GT 545, and the GT 545 (OEM variant). And, as the app notes, it’s a seven-year-old GPU — not a two-year-old chip.

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This utility could be particularly useful for laptops, where it’s much harder to check the make and model on the GPU, but it could also be useful in situations where the counterfeiter might have altered the labels on the desktop card. Printing replacement stickers and art are pretty trivial for most companies and one might not see the difference without close examination of the card itself. Hopefully, tools like this will help crack down on fraud against Chinese gamers and the unscrupulous companies rebranding hardware. Hat tip to Tom’s Hardware for spotting the update. GPU-Z may be downloaded here.

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Now Read: How Graphics Cards Work, AMD May Be Prepping New Polaris 30 GPUs For October Launch, and Nvidia’s RTX 2070 Features 2016 Performance, Currently Useless Features, and a Massive Price Increase